Fabric and garment construction



July 10, 1945. c. D. WILLIAMSON Filed Aug. 25, 1944 O. D. WILL/AMSON INVENTOR. 4 JAWQ A 770 RNEV Patented July 10, 1945 UNlTED STAT 2 Claims.

This invention relates to textile and clothing manufacture and improvements in garment construction whereby all types of bifurcated garments, such as pants, or the like, can be properly reenforced at points which are most subject to wearand its primary object resides in the provision of a speciallydesisned and woven fabric wherein certain definite areas of the cloth, such as av strip of i any desired width, is integrated into the bolt when woven, which may be strongerthan the body of the cloth and thus substantially reenforced at this point.

An object of the invention, therefore, is to provide a fabric capable of peculiar adaptation to the manufacture ofv work clothing, particularly in strengthening portions of garments such as pants, where wear and undue stresses occur as at the knees and thighs and afford an economical and durable garment without increase in the cost of manufacture of the garment and only a negligible increase in the production of the fabric.

Another object of the invention is that of providing a, fabric in which a portion of the longitudinal warp yarns woven into the cloth are increased in number or stronger than those of the main body thereof as, for example, a strip of predetermined width and running parallel to and spaced a predetermined distance from one of the selvedges of the fabric whereby certain portions of garments, as pants, may be cut from the fabric in the usual manner yet providing for the location of the reenforced portion in the approximate center of the pants leg in front of the wearer and extending the full length thereof thus presenting strengthened portions of the cloth to wear at the points where such wear is usually most prevalent.

Broadly, the invention seeks to comprehend the provision of a fabric manufacture and garment construction calculated to increase wear of work clothing without resorting to conventional means of reenfor'cing points of wear by adding thicknesses of cloth to such garments which methods often result in bulkiness of portions of the garment and much discomfort to the wearer.

While the foregoing objects are paramount, other and lesser objects will become manifest as the description proceeds taken in connection with the appended drawing wherein:

Figure 1 illustrates a fragmentary length of fabric having a strip woven thereinto in accordance with the invention which is stronger than the bodythereof and showing, in dotted lines, the manner in which the front and back portions of trousers can be cut therefrom.

Figure 2 is a front view of a pair of trousers ES PATENT OFFICE I FABRIC AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Charles D. Williamson, Fort Worth, Tex. Application August 25,1944, Serial No. 551,162

vention illustrating the relationship of the longio tudinal warp yarns comprising 1 made in accordance with the invention and illustrating the strengthened strip in the fabric extending the full length of the front of each leg. Figure 3 further illustrates the strengthened strips in the fabric running the full length of each trouser leg.

Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view of the inthe strengthened strip integrated into the fabric, and.

Figure 5 fragmentarily illustrates the strengthened strip in comparison to the main body of the cloth and its relation to the selvedge.

In a recent authoritative survey conducted by persons interested in textile manufacture it was determined that the greatest wear on work pants is at the: knee while the'thigh received the next greatest wear. In order to remedy this situation various conventional methods have been employed, suchas substituting heavier cloth for the entire garment, thereby greatly increasing the cost, or reenforcing. at primary points of wear with additional thicknesses of cloth which results in both increase in cost and ill formed and ill fitting, uncomfortable garments.

The invention, therefore, comprises weaving fabric so as to integrate thereinto alongitudinal strip or section I by increasing the number of longitudinal warp yarns per inch, or using a stronger yarn, while employing the standard number of yarns in the transverse weave and in the main body 2'of the cloth and locating the stronger strip, which may be any desired width, depending on its ultimate use, a desired distance from one of the selvedges 3, in a manner illustrated in Figures 1, 4 and 5.

This arrangement may also be accomplished by inserting into the strip l or larger warp yarns running lengthwise of the body 2 of the cloth, although it is not necessarily desirable to thicken the fabric at this point, or employ two ply twisted, combed or fiber yarns of greater strength. Obviously, many methods may be employed in providing the strip l, any of which may be accomplished without difficulty and without requiring any especially designed equipment.

One of the primary purposes of the invention being to afford a stronger and more durable garment, Figure 1 illustrates, in dotted lines, the

manner in which the back and front sections 4 and 5 of the garment are laid out and cut from the finished fabric, in the usual manner with a minimum of waste. It will be noted that the front section 5 is always out from the edge 3 of the cloth so that the strengthened strip, which a number of heavier is properly spaced from the selvedge 3, will extend longitudinally of the front section 5 and spaced from its sides so that, when the trousers 6 are completed, the reenforced portion I Will extend down the front of the trouser legs 1., in the manner illustrated in Figures 2 and 3.

The terms pants, trousers and garment herein employed are intended to embrace any and all types of bifurcated garments, as well as shirts, and thezlike, and-including overalls-and unionalls.

By causing the reenforced orstrengthened'strip I to run full length of the legs 6 all of the usual points of wear are protected as at the knee 801 the thigh 9, as depicted in Figure 3. While providing for the strengthening 'of the-critical points of wear it is obviously economical to. ,provide a fabric having a definitely located reenforced or strengthened portion such as the strip I.

In the manufacture of trousers it is considered practical to weave the fabric in widths of about 30 inches to minimize waste :and 'to locate the stronger strip approximately 2 inches from -the selvedge 3. The strip should :be approximately five incheswide in order toa'fford a "desira'ble wearing surface. When the strip is of the width above mentioned and locatedrthe'stated distance from the selvedge 3 the front section 5 of the--garm'ent leg I can 'b'e'cut'so that 'thes'trip 1 will be'centrallydoca'ted therein, as shown in Figure 2. In this manner no greater wastewill result in I cutting than by the conventional methods.

Obviously certain changes 'and modifications in the *manner of weaving the fabric 'to provide the strengthened sorted to 'from time to time by persons skilled inthe art-and 'such changes and modifications so resorted to as may be'considered as falling Within 'the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. improved articlezof manufacturaawoven sheet for fabricating-trousers, said sheet having portion l thereof may be rea selvedge, a continuous area of increased wear quality extending parallel to said selvedge comprising a group of yarns having, as a group, comparatively high wearing properties, a relatively narrow area formed of yarns of comparatively low wearing properties between said area of increased wear quality and selvedge, a second, comparatively wide area formed of yarns of relatively low wearing properties at the opposite side of said area-of increased wearquality, the relative widths of ,said areas 'being such that sections cut lengthwise of said area of increased wear quality with equal widths of material of lesser wear quality at opposite sides thereof will form trouser front panels l raving'said area of increased wear quality extendinglengthwise and centrally thereof, and sections cut lengthwise from the remaining portionrof said.-second,wider area of lesser wear quality willform trouser back panels.

2. An improved article of manufacture, a woven sheet .for fabricating trousers, said sheet having a selvedge iatlone side, a narrow area of lesser .wearrquality extending along .said selvedge and composedof 1yarns of relatively low wearing properties, .a wide area .of lesser wear quality extending along z-the opposite edge of said sheet and :composed'of yarns of :relativelylow wearing :prop- -erties,--'and an areaof 'increasedwear quality con- :tainin'gagroup of yarns having, as agroup, relaitively high wearingproperties between said first two areas, the :width of ,said area of increased wear quality and said narrow "area of lesser wear quality being such that sections cut lengthwise therefrom and :of :a width extending transversely ofthe sheet from .the selvedge'into the wide area :of lesser wear quality a distance equal to the width-of said :narrowarea will form trouser front panels each having an area of increased wear quality extendinglengthwise and centrally there- CHARLES D. WILLIAMSON. 

